Kale is a wonderfully earthy, nutritious green that is good year-round, but achieves true greatness only after the first frost. This generally happens sometime in September, so October and November, even December, are prime time for kale, which can survive temperatures as low as 5 degrees Fahrenheit. I’ve found that even those who “don’t like kale” often change their tune after tasting the frost-sweetened kale of fall and winter.
Kale is an ancient form of cabbage in which the leaves do not form a head. Both curly and flat leaved varieties were grown in Greece in the fourth century BC, and were referred to by the Romans as Sabellian kale. Until the end of the Middle Ages, kale was one of the most common green vegetables in all of Europe, able to grow in most climates and soils.
Today, kale comes in many colors and textures, from red and purple to light and dark green, and with leaf textures ranging from frilly to curly to pebbly to flat. But my favorite is the kale with the slender, blue-green leaves and pebbly texture that goes under many names. In Italy, it’s known as Cavolo nero, Nero di Toscana, or Cavolo laciniato. Similar names show up in many U.S. farmers markets, where it’s known as Tuscan Kale, Italian Kale, or Lacinato Kale. (“Lacinato” is a slight corruption of laciniato, an Italian botanical term meaning lobed, jagged or fringed.) Some marketers call it dinosaur kale, imagining that it resembles the leathery skin of dinosaurs.
By any name, it’s remarkably flavorful and substantial—meatier than spinach or Swiss chard, sweeter than collards, and more mellow than turnip or mustard greens. Most recipes call for blanching kale first, then reheating it in olive oil or braising it further in stock. You can also slice the raw leaves and braise them without blanching, but they will take longer to become tender and will have a stronger taste. My favorite thing to do is braise kale in salted water, and then squeeze it out and sauté with olive oil and garlic, with some bacon or pancetta thrown in. But here are a few other fun things to do with kale.
Crispy Tuscan Kale Chips (adapted from Dan Barber)
12 large Tuscan kale leaves, rinsed, dried, cut lengthwise in half, center ribs and stems removed
1 tablespoon olive oil
Preheat oven to 250 degrees F. Toss kale with oil, then sprinkle with salt and pepper. Arrange leaves in a single layer on 2 large baking sheets. Bake until crisp, about 30 minutes. Transfer leaves to a rack to cool, then eat instead of potato chips!
Tuscan Kale with Creamy Polenta 2 bunches Tuscan kale, ribs removed
1 cup polenta (try the freshly ground white cornmeal from Three Sisters Garden)
Kosher salt
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
Freshly grated pecorino or Parmesan cheese
Bring 2-3 quarts of salted water to a boil. Add the kale and boil 5-6 minutes. Lift the kale out and put into a colander under cold running water. Drain and squeeze dry. Chop medium fine.
Put 4-5 cups of the cooking liquid into a clean saucepan. (Use 4 cups if you like thick polenta, 5 cups if you like it more creamy.) Bring to a boil and add the polenta gradually, whisking constantly. Lower the heat to medium and cook, whisking often, until the mixture thickens, about 5 minutes, then switch to a wooden spoon. Adjust heat to maintain a steady bubble and cook, stirring often, until polenta is smooth, about 45 minutes. Add chopped kale during the final 10 minutes. Season to taste with salt.
Heat olive oil in a small skillet over moderately low heat. Add garlic and saute about 1 minute. Stir garlic and oil into polenta and cook for about 2 minutes.
Pour the polenta onto a wooden board or a large shallow platter. Let cool for 5-10 minutes to allow the polenta to set up. Sprinkle with grated cheese to taste.
